King

The food at King is, without a doubt, masterfully executed and of the highest quality. The complimentary bread is endlessly craveable, the Panisse is the staple of the daily changing menu for good reason, and the pasta (which comes highly recommended) did not disappoint. Two glaring issues, however, sour the experience. First, the space is small, with a tight open kitchen in the back of the room. Now this is a common occurrence in New York, but King is so crammed with tables that you feel in the way, constantly leaning one way or the other so you don’t bump into one of the many (so many) servers squeezing through. Thankfully, we were seated at the end of a long (basically communal) row of tables, but I still felt like I was on a double date I didn’t ask for. Second, the dishes feel maddingly incomplete for the price point. I’m not one to shy away from a costly dinner, but King routinely offers meager portions at a high rate. Don’t be surprised if you end up grabbing a burger when you leave, despite spending $200 on dinner.

Who to Bring: Your parents will complain it’s too small (and the dessert takes forever to come out), your date won’t feel intimate, and your friends’ group won’t be able to relax. Bring your chef friend - someone willing to be a little uncomfortable for the sake of a genuine fine dining menu.

What to Wear: King offers true Soho fine dining, so it’s the perfect place to keep it classy - you might just spot a celeb (I dined near Elle Fanning).

Reservations: Readily available on Resy, especially if you’re okay with eating outside. If you’re looking for a dining room table I’d recommend booking at least a week or two in advance.

Complimentary Bread; Panisse; Ravioli; Lobster and Peas; Cherry Clafoutis